From La Spezia to Monterosso via Portovenere: our recipe with a Yuppi rental.
Many say Cinque Terre is only done by train. False: if you plan it right, the car is freedom. We picked up a compact in La Spezia and drove to Portovenere at seven in the morning, ahead of the coach traffic.
We stopped at Riomaggiore, Manarola and Vernazza using park-and-ride lots plus local shuttles. Different lunch in each: focaccia with anchovies, trofie al pesto, basil gelato. No queues at 11am.
Next day we loaded the trekking backpacks and drove up to Volastra: scenic trails above the sea, no tourists, and the car in a €3 guarded lot.
Practical tip: take Yuppi's Peace of Mind. The lanes are narrow and stone walls scratch doors. It saved us a €400 bill.
